The Lumberyard
Building the coaming for the skylight (click to open/close)
The skylight is set on a coaming. This is built the same way any of the hatch coamings are built. Once the coaming is assembled the corners will be trimmed even.
Build a frame work on the coaming (click to open/close)
By using the same material used for the ledges a frame work is built on the coaming. A wider material is used for the short uprights. In actual building they would have been attached to the lower and upper frame with a mortise and tenion, on the model they are glued in place. Next an upper frame is set in place. Once the frame is built holes are drilled through the upper frame and into the lower. Protective bars are run into the holes. The bars themselves are made from .025 styrene plastic rod bought at a local hobby shop. The rods are white in color so they were painted black before being installed. No glue was used to set the bars in place.
Set beams across frame work (click to open/close)
With the bars in place beams are set across the frame work. Doubles are set at each end so the ends of the roof planking will have something to nail to. I didn’t bother to cut the beams to exact lengths. I cut them close and glued them in place.
Sand beams flush with frame work (click to open/close)

After the epoxy sets up the ends of the beams are sanded flush with the sides of the frame work.
Fix molding to side of frame work (click to open/close)
A molding is fixed to the side of the framework to box in the ends of the roof beams. This molding is the width of the roof beam plus half of the top frame. Once in place it will make the structure water tight.
Adding wood to act as a guild (click to open/close)
A scrap of wood is added to the side of the framework with two sided tape. This is used as a guild to set the over hang of the edging plank. The edge plank is ¼ wide and 1/16 thick. This is one of the rare areas where a 45 degree joint is used. The end grain of wood tends to absorb water faster than the rest of the plank. Before the joint is set, caulking is used on the face of the 45 degree edge.
Examine skylight and molding (click to open/close)
Here the skylight is tipped on its side so you can see the molding and the over hang of the edge plank. At this stage you can add glass to the windows, one suggestion is to use the clear plastic many products are packaged in.
Placing skylight on deck (click to open/close)
Here the skylight is in place on deck. The decking is an experiment in using a clear plastic planking. There is so much fine joinery in the deck structure I didn't want to cover it. To put the carronades on the model some sort of decking is needed. Planks were cut from plastic and run through the sander to score the surface so it looked like a grain pattern. The edges were painted black to simulate caulking. The entire skylight was built off the model. In reality the coaming would be set in place on the beams then iron pins run through the corners and into the beams. The coamings are also pinned to the carlings. Then the rest of the structure is built on the coaming.

Go to part 26- TRANSOM RAIL

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