The Lumberyard
Bulwark construction begins (click to open/close)
The bulwark construction begins by cutting lengths of 3/32 square stock long enough to reach from the main wale to a little above the height of the finished bulwark. The square stock is run through the square holes in the waterways forming the stanchions. Before gluing the stanchions to the inside of the hull planking, take the caprail pieces and glue them together. Using the caprail shape as a guide, glue the stanchions so the ends fall under the caprail.
The first pieces are the knightheads (click to open/close)
At the bow, the holes are not square so larger stock will be used for these stanchions. The first pieces are the knightheads. Rather than cut these pieces at the proper angles, a large piece of square stock was used. The ends were mortised into the waterway. Later when the planking is put on the outside edges will be trimmed.
The knightheads are in place (click to open/close)
The knightheads are in place and the first four stanchions are cut to fit the holes. Later as the planking is applied the sides will be cut to the required angle so that the planks will lay flat on the outer side of the stanchion.
Fitting the quarter timber (click to open/close)
Where the bulwark ends at the stern, there is a piece called the quarter timber. It sits at the corner where the bulwark planks and the stern meet. Cut a notch in the corner of the stern block. Give yourself a big enough notch so you have a little play when fitting the timber.
Close-up of the quarter timber (click to open/close)
Here is a nice close up, fuzzy shot of the quarter timber. Placement of this piece is important because it sets the final width of the sterns upper transom. On page 14 figure 15 of the instruction book provided with the kit, you will be able to see the shape of the outer edge of the timber, it has a slight inward arc. To insure you get this piece the right shape and in the correct position, it is best to make a cardboard template from the cap rail pieces. Keep checking the shaping of the timber back to the template. The ends of the hull planks are sanded even with the timber and the bottom of the timber will be ground down even with the stern block.
A view from the inside (click to open/close)
This is a view from the inside. It shows the cap rail, taffrail and the taffrail knees all fitting together and sitting on the stanchions and quarter timber. Inner stern frames were now added. These timbers were cut to fit the notches in the waterway and fit under the taffrail.
Making a clean fit for the stern post (click to open/close)
I removed the stern post and ran the bottom planking off the stern. I did this so I could cut off the planks and sand a smooth straight edge so the stern post will be a nice clean fit. The bottom planking of the hull sweeps up and ends at the bottom point of the lower transom.
Giving the stern post a final shaping (click to open/close)
Now that the quarter timbers and stern frames are in place, the stern is given a final shaping.
Different ways to attach the bulwark planking to the stanchions (click to open/close)
A few of ways to attach the bulwark planking to the stanchions is to use spring clamps, screw clamps or rubber bands. In this case all three methods were used.
The stanchions running up through the waterways (click to open/close)
Here you see the stanchions running up through the waterways. The outside bulwark planking is in place and the cap rail is sitting on top. On the plans, the cap rail is shown meeting over the bowsprit. On this prototype model, you can see the cap rail was cut even with the knightheads. Most all vessels I have seen the cap rail stops at the knightheads. When a cap rail does go over the bowsprit, there is usually a space between the bowsprit and the cap rail with a knee joining the two cap rails.
The upper transom (click to open/close)
The upper transom piece has to be steam bent to fit the stern. This was done by placing the piece on a hot fry pan and pouring small amounts of water on the pan. As soon as the water hits the hot pan, it evaporates into steam. After doing this a few times, the wood becomes flexible. Bend and clamp the transom piece to the stern until it dries.
The transom is now glued into place.
The transom it is given a final shaping and this completes the upper stern.
The molding piece (click to open/close)
Since the molding piece has to bend in two directions, it is cut to shape rather than trying to make a double bend. A crescent shape is first cut a little over size and shaped to fit the stern. With this done, use a C clamp and bend the molding piece to fit tight against the bottom of the upper transom.
Planking the lower transom (click to open/close)
Planking the lower transom completes the stern.


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