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Gluing and holding by hand (click to open/close)
The bottom planking touches the lowest point of the transom at the stern, bows down in mid ship and sweeps up at the stem. In order to plank in this area, the faces of the bulkheads are marked for the amount of planks it will take to fill in the area. In the photo, these planks are marked by alternating black and white bands. At mid ship it will require a little over six planks. At the bow there is room for two planks and the stern will require four. Trying to devise some sort of clamping to hold the planks to the hull is quite useless. These planks require holding in a number of directions. They have to be held against the hull as well as against the plank below without buckling. The best way to hold the planks in place is by hand. Using a slow setting carpenters glue takes way to long to set. Your fingers will cramp up before the glue grabs. To build the prototype, I used a five-minute epoxy. This glue will set within 3 minutes and hold the planks in place. It is a messy process. The epoxy will get on your fingers and on the face of the planks. There is no need to worry about the epoxy mess, it will sand off clean and without a trace.
Planking (click to open/close)
Starting where the bottom planking leaves off, two planks are added which only have a taper cut from the stem back to bulkhead three. The tapered edges of the planks are always placed at the top. Never try and place the tapered edge of the plank towards the plank below it because this causes the planks to buckle. Nothing is removed from the planks at the stern. Here the planks take a natural upward sweep. If you were to taper the planks at the stern you would be pulling them down to fit against the edge of the bottom planks. This would force the plank to spring edgewise or kink and not lay flat against the bulkhead. The next two planks will have a taper cut a little longer at the bow back to about bulkhead 5. At the stern, a thin band saw blade was used. This method was used previously with the bottom planking. A sliver of wood is taken off the plank edge. A file can also be used to remove the extra material off the plank.
Only two more planks left (click to open/close)
With space left for a little more than two planks, these will be cut to fit the hull. First a strip of paper is held against the hull. With your finger, make a crease along the bottom of the wale and along the top of the last plank. This will produce a general shape of the area needed to be planked. After cutting out the paper shape. It is then refined with cardboard. Making this pattern will take a few tries. Keep cutting and fitting until the cardboard pattern lays flat against the hull with no kinks or buckles. When you have a nice fit of the pattern, it is then split down the middle. This will produce the two last planks.
Fitting the final planks (click to open/close)
The upper pattern is the original paper one, the lower two are the cardboard pattern split to form the last two planks. The upper pattern has been flipped; you would think that's the way it would fit on the hull. The lower two patterns are actually how the planks fit on the hull. The ends curve downward, but when fitted to the hull, the planks appear to sweep upward. These last two planks take a little time to fit. Each one has to be cut from a wider plank, sanded and test fitted, and sanded again until it fits snugly.
The planks from the bow (click to open/close)
At the bow you can see the taper of all the planking as they approach the stem. Each plank takes a smooth upward sweep. The last two planks under the wale are the two that were cut to fit. Notice they don't have as much upper sweep as the ones below.
The second plank (click to open/close)
At the stern no stealers are used. Each plank is cut to fit. At the transom, the end width of the hull planks have been divided equally in the space.
Coat the inside of the hull with epoxy (click to open/close)
When all the planking was in place, I gave the inside of the hull a good thick coat of epoxy. This was done to first seal the wood from moisture, and second to give the planking between the bulkheads a strong backing. When the hull is sanded, some areas may get a little thin. If there is no backing the planks will tend to move.

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