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The components of the frame (click to open/close)
This shows the components of a frame, which consist of nine pieces. When the frames were laid out in a cutting file, the inner and outer edges were given a .030 offset. In other words, the frames were cut 1/16 larger to allow for fitting and finishing.
Using epoxy to attach (click to open/close)
 This photo shows the sequence of how each part is fitted. A five minute epoxy was used to build the frames. There are a number of other glues that will also do the job. I like the epoxy because you don't have to clamp the pieces together and the epoxy set up fast allowing an assembly line building process. I will glue the first futtocks to the floor timber on perhaps ten frames. When I finish the last frame floor I can go back to number one and glue up the second futtocks. The gluing and assembling process is a messy job; you will get epoxy on your fingers as you line up the pieces. By the time the frame is built, there will be epoxy smudges all over it. Don't worry, the epoxy cleans up very nicely. If you don't feel confident to build your frame free hand, you can stick pins along the edges of the frame patterns and set up your frames against the pins.
Create a tight fit (click to open/close)
Not all the butt ends of the frame pieces will be at a 90-degree due to the angle of the laser cut. To insure a nice tight fit, I will use a file with the teeth ground off one edge. Just a couple passes against the end of the futtock will bring the edge to a 90-degree without the file cutting into the surface below. When a frame has been assembled, the inside and outside edges are sanded to remove some of the laser burn. The fore and aft faces of the frames are scraped with a razor blade and brought to a smooth finish.
The odd-shaped frames (click to open/close)

As you approach the bow and stern, the frames will begin to take on a "fat" look. These odd shaped frames are cut full to allow the bevels to be shaped in later.
Penciling in the bevels (click to open/close)
The area penciled in is the bevel. On the left side of the frame shows the outside bevel; on the right side of the frame shows the inside bevel. With the bevels drawn in you can see the true shape of the frame. Some builders will cut the bevels before installing the frame, and some builders will rough in the bevels first. I used the frames as "fat" and shaped the bevels as I sanded the hull.
A view from inside the bow (click to open/close)
This photo places you inside the hull looking to the bow. You can see the stepped frames before the bevels are cut in.
A view of the bow from the outside (click to open/close)
Looking at the bow straight on from the outside, you can see how the hull steps down from frame to frame. The exposed face of each frame is actually the penciled in area. The finished frame shape is behind the frame in front of it.
Looing aft from inside the hull (click to open/close)
Here is a view from the inside of the hull looking aft. This photo clearly shows the stepping up of each frame. This will be sanded smooth once all the frames are in place.
Rough sanding to create the outside shape (click to open/close)
When the frames are first installed the transition from frame to frame look as if the hull couldn't possibly take on a smooth shape. However, in the photo, the hull was given a rough sanding to knock off the front edge. There was a lot of material left on the original frame shape to allow for the final shaping.

Go to part 4 - SETTING THE HULL

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